Restaurants

The Colony Grill Room

My Dad eats out in London a lot. But I know that when I join him and my Mum for dinner, we are going to go to a certain type of place.

Somewhere with a nice bar with black and white photos on the walls, not too noisy and not full of hipsters – generally in the centre of town.

So a few weeks ago we went to The Colony Grill Room in the new-ish Beaumont Hotel in Mayfair. The restaurant is in the style of 1920’s Manhattan with comfy booths and Art Deco-style murals on the walls. It even has an Antony Gormley sculpture.

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We had a drink in the American Bar first which is a cosy room full of corners for whispering couples or celebratory drinks.

The dining room itself is similar to those of other Art Deco restaurants in London; The Delaunay (owned by the same people), The Ivy and Berners Tavern which also have leather booths and walls covered in expensive art.

But I’m sad to say that while those places have their own USPs, The Colony Grill Room just didn’t have a standout personality.

The menu is made up of traditional American fare such as oysters Rockefeller, clam chowder and even banana split.

I chose the New York shrimp cocktail which came with that recognisable red sauce I’ve never really known the real name of. Anyone know what it is??

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It was a generous portion with huge, bright orange prawns. The sauce was just the right mix of sweet and spice.

I’ve eaten a lot of prawn cocktails in the past and some come with too many frilly extras; avocado or lettuce. This one didn’t need anything extra, it was delicious.

BUT, as I said, I’ve eaten a lot of prawn cocktails, and it is my go-to starter when there is nothing that excites or intrigues me on the menu.

The Dover sole my Dad had was cooked, removed from the bone and served to perfection and sides of broccoli with almonds and creamed spinach were the perfect accompaniment.

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I had the rib-eye steak with chips and roasted vine tomatoes. It was a great piece of meat, cooked exactly how I like it.

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In fact everything we ate was excellent and the service was attentive but unobtrusive.

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As you’ve read above, there was nothing wrong with our experience at The Colony Grill – everything from the atmosphere to food, wine and service was spot on.

But for me, there was still something missing, I think perhaps the fact that the average age was around 20 years older than mine could be a factor. It is the ideal spot for a business lunch and I know it will be a great success.

I just think it will be Charles Saatchi, Trinny Woodall and Roy Liddle, who were there the same night as us, who will be more in a rush to go back than me.

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